TRAVEL BLOG 2023

KRABI 8 -11 DECEMBER

The Dives – WBSE and Osprey

Brown -winged Kf were actively diving in the evening.

The Chinese Pond Heron found easy meals at the pond edge.

Tim Sum near our hotel

CAMERON HIGHLANDS (MACRO) 17-19 NOV 2023

A Macro World – Heteropoda Davidbowie, Elegans Prayer Mantis, Phidippus spider?

Mating Long-horn Beetles, Orchid Mantid and Glass Mantis

Gecko and Bark Mantis

Gecko and Bark Mantis

HERPING IN BALI 10-13 NOV 2023

I was invited on a herping tour and I was amazed at how snakes are sighted, handled and returned back to the wild. With a welcoming smile like that, how to fear snakes anymore. I observed that the Herp handlers were professional and even the most venomous snakes were docile when handled respectfully.

King cobra was guarding its brood of 35 eggs. The eggs were about 0.5m deep and fully covered with bamboo leaves (which aid in the incubation of eggs). The eggs were recovered by the Herp Rescue staff who will then incubate the eggs and release the juniors to the wild later.

Python lurking in a bat cave, Sea Krait (note the flattened tail for swimming).

Gold-ringed Cat Snake – often found on coconut tree fronds around padi fields. Mildly venomous.

Malayan Racer, lesser Sunda Pit Viper -female and male

Tokay Gecko, Takydronus sexlineatus, Painted Bronzeback

The best Babi Guling in Seminyak was a 10 min walk from our villa. Problem is that the servings of babi guling are rather pathetic.

The road side stalls offer a wide range of food. I could not resist the humongous 5inch diameter beef balls in beef bakso.

Stayed at a villa (Casa Nisa) at46, Jalan Mertanadi, in Seminyak. A swimming pool greeted us at the entrance and we had a king-sized bed.

KRABI 2-5 NOV 2023

The ponds at the Water Works area in Krabi are teeming with fish and hence attracts birds of prey, egrets, cormorants and bitterns. White-bellied Sea Eagles, Brahminy Kites and Ospreys rule the skies. Photographers are also naturally drawn to the avian creatures. Photographing Ospreys scooping up fish is the challenge for photographers.

Brahminy Kite picking up dead fish with ease

White-bellied Sea eagle hunting for breakfast

Krabi is on the migration path of the Osprey and will stay on from Nov to Feb before flying to the north to Taiwan and China

Breakfast by the roadside stalls – roti prata

Dinner by the famed restaurant -Takola (stir-fried beef, bean sprouts with prawns, tom-yam sea food soup, fried omelette, squid and prawns

I stayed at the River Front Krabi Hotel – clean and at attractive rates

JEJU ISLAND 16-21 OCTOBER 2023

Autumn in Jeju was rather late and instead we were greeted by scorching heat. The focus was more on food and some sight-seeing. Was surprised that the island was quite built -up. Visited the Cheonjiyeon waterfalls, an UNESCO site and also to the popular Sinyang Seopji Beach.

We visited the Flower Bird Park (FBP) and was surprised to see so many birds of prey and owls. The owners were quite innovative and created animated structures of them

The Golden web spider and Brown-eared Bulbul are quite common in Jeju. The Mandarin Duck was from the FBP

On display were the Polo Toucan, Bald Eagle and Alpaca

The popular Myeongjin Jeonbok Abalone Restaurant which is near a beach area at Gujwa was heavenly and worth the long drive. They were making so much money that we even had a free grilled mackerel. Grilled abalone costs about $30. And another must try – the famous Jeju Black pig. We accidentally found the shop just outside the Seogwipo Meile Olle Market. We saw locals feasting there and so we joined in. Heavenly meal.

PERLIS, WEST MALAYSIA, 8-10 SEPT

Target was the Dusky Eagle Owl in Perlis. We took a flight to Penang and a limo to Perlis to Wang Kelian. This viewing platform is at elevation 300m and is situated at Kaki Bukit. On site, a buggy ride brings one up to spectacular sunrise views (if there is no cloud cover). The enigmatic , large owls have cute ear tufts (males have a whitish border on the ears)

Bronze winged Jacana and Openbill at Tasek Melati. The Jacana’s large buttress-like feet is ideal for walking in soft mud. Despite its size, it feeds merely on tiny aquatic insects hidden between the water lilies.

Wonderful selection of Malay food at Anjung Keli, Kangar, Perlis

Or you might want to savour the hawker dishes on Mainland Penang. Lor bak, fried seafood kwai tiaw, spring roll (popiah), fried oysters at Penang Street

SABAH, MALAYSIA 4-11 AUG 2023

Somehow Air Asia gives best time options for connecting flights from KK to Sandakan

LAHAD DATU
We flew to Sandakan and drove for 3 hours along rickety roads to Lahad Datu (to the Tower of Paradise, Mount Silam). Our star bird, the Scarlet-breasted Flowerpecker just showed up for 1 sec. We discovered it was more exciting at Tawau (another 2.5 hour drive)

Whiskered Tree-swift entertained us when the star bird did not respond to the calls.

Wild Orchid and Tractor Millipede

TAWAU

Blue-banded Pitta (endemic to Borneo), Buff-necked Woodpecker, Black faced Kingfisher

Mangrove Blue Flycatcher

Rufous collared Kf. A rare exception. For this species, the female is prettier than the male. (Tawau)

White-crowned Sharma and Bornean Black capped Babbler – both endemic to Borneo

TELUPID

Bornean Peacock-pheasant (endemic to Borneo) and the rarest of all the peacock-pheasants. Skittish, ever alert to camera movements (although we were a distant away)- it takes off with lightning speed when it was aware of our presence. The female was rarely seen and we were fortunate. We were at a hide at Telupid district about 2.5 hours drive from Sandakan (started our journey at 4am). We took a 4WD past a stream and after that it was a 1km trek up (muddy due to the previous day rain). The male pheasant appeared at 12.15pm and the female at 4.20pm

Crocker Jungle Flycatcher, Yellow-bellied Bulbul

SEPILOK
A small intact rainforest near the city was missed by loggers. The Sepilok Orang Utan Sanctuary and the Rainforest Discovery Centre (RDC)are easily accessible for those keen on a wildlife adventure. The 363m long canopy walkway and suspension bridge is one of the best designed in the world. Well conceptualised, with entry at various ground levels, non- bouncy and safe. Even climbing the staircase to the various towers did not seem steep.

Black-headed Pitta (endemic to Borneo) appeared as we arrived. Looking for its early morning meal. The enigmatic man of the forest – the Orang Utan and the flight of the Black Hornbill.

Black and Red Broadbill and Black and Yellow Broadbill

White-breasted Woodpecker and Banded Woodpecker (about to have its bath with the water collected at tree-hole)

Lesser Green Leafbird (female), Lesser Green Leafbird (male) and Purple-naped Spiderhunter – bath time. Rainwater collected in tree crater attracted a number of birds for a well-deserved bath in the sweltering heat.

Wreathed Hornbill, Black Hornbill and White-crowned Hornbill

Wallace Hawk-eagle – viewed from Tower Hornbill, RDC

Canopy walkway and suspension bridge.

Seafood at reasonable prices, comfortable accommodation at Rooms in Tawau

Kampung durians and Terap (it has been years since I tasted this mild-tasting jackfruit. Lunch – a delectable seafood soup with noodle.

SABAH 27 – 30 MAY 2023

It has been 18 years since I visited the Land above the clouds. Mount Kinabalu stands majestic when viewed from Tambunan. I was also fortunate that a Rafflesia had recently bloomed. My target was to document the birds of Mount Trusmadi. Over the years this mountain was heavily logged and I was still able to see some of the remaining avian life.

Mount Kinabalu at sunrise

Rafflesia pricei – just 2 days old. I was told by a forestry staff that the blooms are quite frequent at the forest in Tambunan. And I was told its only a 10 mins walk. How could I resist despite not having a macro lens. My handphone should do the trick.

The Hooded Pitta has the same generic name as those the migrate annually to Singapore. However, the Hooded Pitta found in Sabah has a full black on its head quite unlike the chestnut crown ones found here. above: Temminsk’s Sunbird (Gunong Alab), Hooded Pitta (Kiamsom), Emerald Dove (Gunong Alab)

Clockwise – Crested Partridge, female and male, Bulwers Pheasant (Mount Trusmadi, KK Lee hide)

Blue-naped Parrot (Tanjong Aru), Yellow-crowned Barbet (Tambunan), Bornean Bulbul (endemic to Borneo, Tambunan)

The Restaurant was sprawling and occupied the whole stretch of the road. Reservations are a must despite the size due to its popularity. We had steamed Gong gong (a shellfish, the best ever for me), fried soft-shelled crab, fried squid, steamed prawns and grouper and others.

SOUTH AMERICA, HERE WE COME
(26 March – 7 May 2023)

Best of Costa Rica
The last leg of the journey was the best. Costa Rica has a well developed tourism sector including health and education. She does not have a military outfit and hence money can be channelled to the necessary sectors unlike its poorer neighbours.

Found in limited ranges in Costa Rica (we were at Guapiles region) and the rest of Latin America, this tiny Snowcap hummingbird is unique. Body has the colour of red wine and capped in white. The female is a sharp contrast with a green/ emerald body sans a snow cap.

A scintillating hummingbird, the Fiery-throated Hummingbird is endemic to the mountains of Costa Rica and Panama. In good light, the colours of the rainbow sparkle from its throat and breast. (Los Quetzales National Park).

The highlight in Costa Rica was the Resplendent Quetzal – a member of the trogon family. Its iridescent green body and head, red belly and long tail feathers makes it one of the most sought after birds among photographers and birders. It is not surprising that it is the national emblem of Guatemala. The bird is also found in Mexico and Central America.

Best of Equador
The highlight was a trip to the Amazon forest where we flew in to Coca from Quito (30 minutes). It was a 2 hour boat ride (Napo River) to the Napo Wildlife Center where we stayed among the Kichwa Ariangu tribe.

Ladder-tailed Nightjar, Pale-billed Woodpecker, Orange-breasted Falcon(Coca, Ecuador)

Mealy Parrots congregating on salt-licks. Often the parrots screeched away in fright in the presence of the predatory Orange-breasted Falcon.

A traditional meal with the local tribe. Plantain soup, local doughy bread, and steamed tilapia with palm shoots on banana leaf, and grilled sago beetle larvae for the brave hearts

Best of Peru
Peru’s tourism sector is most underdeveloped. Locals rarely speak English. The country is also poor and strikes on the southern part curtailed part of our travel plans

Amethyst- throated Sunagel, Little Woodstart

The Star bird in Peru was at the Huembo Lodge – the Marvellous Spatuletail. Endemic and endangered, the bird is much sought after as it is believed that the tiny bird’s heart has aphrodisiac properties

Most common hummingbird is the medium sized White-necked Jacobin (also known as Great Jacobin and Collared Hummingbird). Do note the white nape and the brilliant contrasty blue head

White-chinned Sapphire, Female and male Rufous -crested Coquette at Waqanki

Black bellied Thornbill and Rusty breasted Hermit at Tarapoto, Lima

Green Hermit, Peruvian Racket-tail female and male

Fork-tailed Woodnymph. Its iridescent breast and violet belly stands out in this small hummingbird. Its bluish tail is forked (hence the name).

In the morning, we had an eventful day by the road for the Burrowing Owl. Meals are usually accompanied by rice or chips or fried plantain (a kind of banana) and cassava (at Yacumama). We saw the Ringed Kingfisher- the largest Kf in the world, the Amazon Kf, Capped Heron, Red-capped Cardinal, the White-fronted Capucchine Monkey and Saddleback Tamarin

Ring Kf, Amazon Kf, White-fronted Capucchine Monkeys

The friendly folks at El Eden (restaurant cum hotel). Basic hotel but unfortunately no hot water there. Hotels in rural areas have no lifts and the folks there will help carry our luggage.

A breakfast dish called Tamal or Humita – corn-filled with chicken and olive – a must-try Peruvian dish

Day 1

The flight to Paris was nearly 14 hours with transit time of 3 hours and another 12 hours to Lima, Peru. The food on Air France was not great and in both the legs we had to wait for 10 hours for the next meal – certainly to their convenience and not to ours. Nine of us started this odyssey since April 2022 when we all agreed to go. All for the first time except our leader, Lim Ser Chai.

We stayed at Limao Hotel for the night to prepare for a 4am domestic flight the following day. Ours bazookas had not fired a single shot and yet there were several vultures circling over our hotel. We had a quick dinner at Vienna cafe and was briefed by tour guide Freddy Madrigal.

Day 2

Golden tailed Sapphire, Fork-tailed Wood Nymph

We were at a Aconabikh Reservation area (a private forest reserve) – a 45 min away from our hotel; we encountered eight species of hummingbirds but the rain increased our image noise level quite dramatically. Hope for better weather the next day.

At the Cumbaza hotel in Tarapoto for lodging and meals. We also went to the Mono la Gata for some tree-top views of the avian wildlife.

KRABI (5 March – 7 March 2023)

Just an hour 40 minutes away from Changi, Krabi was a welcome change from the torrential rain for the past week in Singapore. Bright sunshine and heavenly blue skies greeted me as I touched down at Krabi. No time was wasted and a boat was hired (2000 bahts) at Chao Fah Pier to the mangroves to look for the Brown-winged Kf. My previous shot of this bird was a dismal encounter at Phuket.

Brown-winged Kingfisher

I stayed at the Cliff Elegance Resort – a clean abode smack in the centre of the vibrant hub – yet away from the noise. For meals you may try Takola Restaurant (Ms Snon (0756209872) – a Thai – Chinese fusion to whet your appetite. I had succulent clams, minced pork soup infused with 5 spice powder, fried fish slices and cabbage and the delectable mango-sticky rice as dessert. The restaurant is situated in town (away from the beach).

the Clift Elegant Resort

The ponds near the Andaman Cultural Study Centre diving spots for birds of prey. Ospreys, Brahminy Kites and White -bellied Sea Eagles often take a dip into the ponds that were teeming with fish. Egrets, Grey Herons, Javan Pond Herons, Darters and Egrets too spend time in the ponds.